Bali, Part 4
Day 9, January 6
Today was jammed packed with things to do. When Taryn was waiting on her bag to arrive, she had to make a trip back to the airport so she hired this guy named Putu to drive her there and back. She still had his number so we decided to text him and see if he’d be up for driving us around all day. Luckily he was and we were able to work out a good price.
The first thing I noticed when he picked us up was that his arms were covered in tattoos. I only mention this because the other day when we were hiking one of the guides mentioned that tattoos are uncommon especially large ones that aren’t hidden.
We left our place at 11am and set off for our first stop of the day: the rice terrace. When we arrived we were all taken back by the beautiful of them. Everything is so green and there are so many levels to the fields. We started hiking down and then on the way up there was a donation box to enter that part of the field. We realized that each level or section was owned by a different farmer. I will never take for granted rice ever again after seeing how hard those workers worked. We were so hot and tired just walking around taking pictures so I can’t even imagine what it’s like to work the fields.
Desa Pekraman Tegallalang
We carried on after giving a donation and came to a hut that was selling coconuts and something called snake fruit. We decided to try the snake fruit and actually ended up liking it. It kind of had a grape flavoring taste to it. It’s called snake because the out skin of it is scaly like a snake but for a while I thought it was because it’s what snakes ate.
Snake Fruit
After the rice terrace we headed to one of the many temples of the day. But on the way there we saw a town called Bubuh Bali that was selling rice pudding. We decided to stop and try it out. It wasn’t a sweet one like we were all expecting – it was more or a side dish to a meal, I think.
Beautiful presentation even at a place on the side of the road
After that we were back on the road for the first temple. These are the 3 temples we did: Gunang Kawi Tampaksiring, Goa Gajah Bedulu (aka Elephant Temple) & Tirta Empul Tampaksiring (aka Water Temple).
The Sisters Payne visit temples
We learned that the statues and some trees are covered because of a sacred ceremony. The special cloth used is called saput poleng and is considered somewhat sacred.
After receiving a holy blessing at the Buddhist Temple
Water Temple
We were shocked to see this symbol around Bali before learning the meaning. The swastika is an ancient religious symbol originating from the Indian subcontinent. It is considered a sacred symbol in Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism dating back 11,000 years. So basically this was the use way before Nazi Germany used it.
This temple had the most steps out of them all. After all the temples we had probably walked a good 5 miles.
For some reason they use Princess Diana’s head to sell the dresses
Then Putu took us to the Mandating Estate Coffee. This was a really cool thing to experience because of the way the coffee is made. There are these animals called Luwaks that eat the cherry coffee and the inner seeds are fermented and then neutralized during digestion then they poop them out. All the little seeds are extracted from the poop and then ready for the coffee process once cleaned.
Lastly we went to the Tegenungan Waterfall. Again there were a lot of steps down which meant going up was going to be a challenge. Once we got down there we took turns going into the water so someone could stay with our stuff. The current of the waterfall was very strong. It made it hard to stand up or move around. So our pictures look very chaotic. But the water felt nice after sweating non-stop all day.
We were finally done with all our excursions for the day so Putu took us back to our place. Without showering or changing we immediately went to get food because we were starving.
I think Putu was ready to get rid of us
We went to where else but our favorite place, Kafe Bunute. I got the watermelon juice and another traditional Balinese dish. Holly, to answer your question, the meals are all very cheap. Mine probably cost around $8 total.
Watermelon juice
After dinner we went back to the room so I could change shoes before going in search of ear drops and my sister and Taryn stayed back so they could finish their in-depth conversation about Hallmark channel Christmas movies. I left them to that and went by myself.
I don’t even think they noticed I left
I was successful in getting the ear drops and so I made my way back to the room so I could pack up and get ready to leave in the morning since this was our last night in Ubud. Just as we were all settled in my sister saw a huge, huge spider. Taryn tried to get it but it scurried behind the armoire and we could not find him. So my sister went up to the front to ask for help. She came back with 2 guys to help find and get the spider out of our room. They were actually pretty scared too so that made us feel better. The spider had come out from hiding so it made it easy for them to push him out and then kill him before putting him outside.
After all that excitement is was time for bed.
Day 10, January 7
Today we finally left the Dewangga Bungalows in route to Uluwatu. The people at Dewangga had been so good to us. They knew all of our names and would ask where we were off to when leaving for the day and then ask how our day was. And they would ask in a way like they really cared. Today as I was leaving the pool area, the little man that served us breakfast asked if today was our last day because he saw I had my bags. And I said yes sadly. Then he and all of the ladies in the kitchen said goodbye and told me to tell Taryn and Jillian (he thought I was Bethany) goodbye. I don’t think I’ve ever stayed at a place where the workers learn everyone’s names and then show such interest.
I also really, really loved the location of the place. It was centrally located to a lot of things in Ubud. I just quickly got accustomed to it and the amenities and now it was time to move on. I had to remind myself that this is what backpacking is all about, not staying in one place too long and being able to adapt to many different living situations.
Anyway on to Uluwatu. We got Putu to drive us there which ended up being about a 2 hour drive. I called ahead to a place called Kembang Kuning Bungalow to see if they had any rooms available. When my sister and I went to hike the volcano we met 2 other Americans that were also backpacking and they had just come from Uluwatu and stayed at Kembang Kuning. That’s how we got the idea to check out this cool beach town.
The drive wasn’t bad at all. Putu is a really good driver and really knows his way around Bali. Once we got into Uluwatu the streets were really hard to figure out but somehow Putu delivered us safely to our place.
When we walked in there was a young Balinese boy laying on the bench and no one else there to talk to and no front desk area. So I start walking to the pool area because I wanted to see the Indian Ocean. Then he jumped up and told us the room to go to. There was no official check in or discussion of rates or anything like the normal. So we went to our room and as he was walking away I had to shout out to him to ask him the rate per night. It was all very laid back.
The room is much smaller than the previous one we came from and has no AC. You are paying more for the beautiful view than for the room itself. But it’s a bed with a shower and toilet. That’s really all we need.
Open air shower with toilet
Once we set our bags down we ran out to the pool area to start taking pictures. There is an infinity pool overlooking the Indian Ocean that is unreal. It looks like something we could never afford but it was within our backpacking budget.
Infinity pool overlooking the Indian Ocean
Then it was off to get some food. I found this place called Cashew Tree that was only like a 10 minute walk so we headed there. When we arrived they were playing old rock music and had this very hippie vibe. They had fresh juices, vegan options, gluten free options and just really healthy items on the menu. After sweating so much and eating a lot of noodles and rice the past week, it was a nice option to find a lighter, fresher menu. They also had these bean bag chairs under this shaded hut that we sat in. I got the Soul Bowl that had quinoa, veggies, avocado (I haven’t had avocado in well over a week), hummus, sprouts, carrots, beets and some other stuff. And to keep my juice a day streak going, I got the Refresher Juice that had pineapple, mint, aloe vera, lime and pear. It was really, really good but we had to chug it because we forgot to ask for it without ice. Sidenote, we can’t drink the water, or have ice or even brush our teeth with their water because we will get what is known as Bali Belly.
After lunch we headed to the beach. We took a wrong turn and ended up in a field of cows that overlooked the ocean.
So we decided to back track and go back the way we knew instead of trying to off rode it. There’s this long, long, long path way to the beach that has about 500 stairs, this is no exaggeration, that is really steep. We finally made it down there and just stopped at the first spot we found. We didn’t have any towels because our place doesn’t readily give them out. Also there are no pictures from this beach excursion because we were all covered in sand.
We took turns going into the water because we had our purses and didn’t feel comfortable leaving them unattended. So I waited my turn by doing some people watching. Then it was my turn to go in. The water was so warm! I guess I am just used to the cold Pacific Ocean and was expecting that but this was warm. I made it out to where my sister was without a problem. The waves had died down a bit. I was in there for a little bit and then was getting tired so decided to head up to the shore.
Right when I was going the waves got really bad. I was trying my hardest to get back into the deeper water and let them die down again. But then I got hit with some huge waves that carried me in over the rocks and then back out like 4 times. I felt like a beached whale because I was on this big rock and couldn’t move and I saw another wave coming. At this point I had sand everywhere, water up my nose and my eyes were burning. But luckily this good-looking Australian guy came over to help me up. As he was pulling me up the waves were stilling coming in strong. I made it up to our spot and realized that I had cut my foot, elbow, palm and knuckles on my left side and covered in sand.
Taryn informed me that everyone was watching this play out and then the Aussie came to my rescue. I was so over the beach at that point. So we headed back up the 500 stairs and went back to our place. I immediately jumped into our pool here to get all the sand out. I think I had half the beach in my bathing suit. After getting it all out, I hoped in the shower so I could then doctor my cuts.
By this point it was almost sunset so I went outside and sat on one of the outside beds to read and write and wait for the sunset.
Sunset over the Indian Ocean
After the sunset, my sister and I went to find some place for dinner. We walked back down to the beach and found this place but they were only serving seafood mainly squid and cooking it on the beach. I saw one of the guys pull out the squid and I almost vomited so it was on to the next place. After walking up those steps again and then back down and making a complete circle, we found a place that was still open and serving other stuff that seafood. I got the fried noodles with egg and we ate on the deck overlooking the ocean. The breeze felt nice after working up a sweat climbing those stairs twice.
You can’t see the ocean in the background but it was really beautiful
After that it was back to our place to just relax the rest of the night. We had a roach incident that night but we discovered Taryn is not afraid of them so she handled it like a champ.
**I have now been in 3 oceans: the Pacific, Atlantic & Indian (& Caribbean Sea)**
Momma Payne
January 10, 2017
The beach is beautiful there. I am confused, where is this last place? I thought you are in the Philippines now. I’m glad to see you are getting to wear the shoes;) You seem to have forgotten about the buddy system! Jillian, are you feeling better? That was scary.
Jillian
January 10, 2017
We were still in Ubud, Bali when I had to go get ear drops. And yes I am fine. They worked perfectly. And yeah we broke in the shoes! The second place after Ubud was Uluwatu, Bali. We stayed there for 2 nights and are now in route to Philippines.
Jillian
January 10, 2017
The last place where we went to the Indian Ocean was in Uluwatu, Bali. We were in Uluwatu for 2 nights before leaving for Philippines. We are a day ahead over here so my days won’t match yours. And yes, we were those shoes for that big day excursion in Ubud and they were pretty nice. Yeah, I’m fine. I was done with that ocean after that incident though. I had some cuts and bruises but overall good.